The Ultimate Betta Guide (Domestic)
The domestic betta [beh-tuh] fish (Betta splendens) which is also known as the ornamental betta, commercial betta, and the Siamese Fighting Fish, is one of the most popular fish in the pet trade and a long-time favorite of fish hobbyists all over the world because of their beauty, fun personalities, and small size.
There are currently over 73 recognized species in the betta complex, with the domestic betta (Betta splendens) being the most well-known, aggressive, and striking in appearance due to their history as both fighting fish and ornamental fish. Domestic bettas in modern day are actually crosses between multiple wild betta species in the splendens group such as Betta imbellis, Betta mahachaiensis, Betta smaragdina, and the original Betta splendens, which makes up most of their genetic composition.
History
The history of the domestic betta dates back to when the King of Siam in 1840 started collecting fighting fish, few of which he selected to give to his friend, Theodore Cantor, a doctor in the Bengal Medical Service. It wasn’t until 1909 that C. Tate Regan gave it the scientific name Betta splendens, which were later introduced into France and Germany, then in the United States around 1910 (Betta Fish Center, 2009). From there, selectively breeding for aggression and stamina became common as people enjoyed placing bets on fish in the ring, where winners were determined by the willingness to keep fighting.
These fish were not the same fish we know today, as they had shorter fins (traditional plakats) and were only available in dirty brown/green hues until new color variations started appearing. Male bettas were used instead of females to fight as they were much more aggressive and territorial, flaring their gill covers and nipping at the fins of other fish (even females) who got too close. In the wild, fights would last only 15 minutes but in captivity, they were selectively bred to last over an hour.
Over time, breeders started paying more attention to physical traits that would help a betta last in a fight, thus, the birth of new fin variations, some of which popped up unintentionally (the first being the veiltail variation). Betta fish originally only brightened up when aroused, but betta enthusiasts started seeing a potential for these fish as display fish when they started cross breeding different species of bettas, and breeding them to be more colorful.
In 1927 the first brightly-hued, flowing-finned Siamese fighting fish were brought to the United States. The classical genetic basis for the pigments of B. splendens was first published in 1934 (Science, 1934). Now, they are more commonly bred as display fish that even have their own specialty shows where they are evaluated based on their appearance under the guidance of show standards, such as the IBC (International Betta Congress) where an average of 300–1400 bettas are shown at every show today (as demonstrated by figures 1 and 4.)
Like many domesticated animals, there are variations in bettas that can cause them issues: functional or health-related. All long-finned variations of bettas (halfmoon, crowntail, dumbo, and more) can make it difficult for the fish to swim without needing to rest occasionally due to their weight. They are also very prone to fin rot if water quality is imperfect, “hard” water causes long fins to curl or split unevenly. and it is not unusual for them to nip at their own fins.
Dragonscale/metallic bettas in specific have overactivity of iridophores which puts them at risk of not being able to recover from fin injuries, scales around their face growing too fast and covering the eye (diamond eye) leading to blindness, and the excessive scaling can also lead to deadly tumors. The marbling gene also makes the fish prone to developing tumors easily, especially ones with white scaling due to their cells always changing. In marbled bettas, tumors can be internal as well as external. Rosetail/feathertail bettas have over branching fins meaning they have too many bones in their fins which makes them prone to bone breaks and collapses. Lastly, doubletail bettas generally have shorter bodies than the average betta which can lead to chronic swim bladder issues.
Habitat
In the wild, bettas are native to Southeast Asia including the northern Malay Peninsula, central and eastern Thailand, Kampuchea, and southern Vietnam (Witte and Schmidt 1992). They are found in slow or still flowing waters: floodplains, canals, rice paddies (Rainboth 1996), medium to large rivers (Taki 1978), ponds, lagoons and marshes (Regan, 1910). They are often found in bodies of water where oxygen content is low, hence the function of the labyrinth organ.
Wild bettas are well known for their hardiness — during the dry season, most Bettas are able to bury themselves in moist cavities of their dry habitat until water once again fills the depression during a rainy period. The fish can survive even if thick, clay mud is all that is left of the water. They do not survive total drying out of the bottom (Vierke 1988).
Biology
Wild bettas look and act quite different from domestic bettas: they are short finned, often brown or green in color (when not aroused), and are not quite as aggressive as domestic Bettas. Wild bettas are, unfortunately, threatened in the wild due to pollution and habitat destruction, however, many are making an effort to captive breed wild bettas in an effort to repopulate and save them. The differentiating characteristics between the wild (true) and domestic Betta splendens is the red stripe on the cheeks, green-blue scales sprinkled throughout the body, and shorter fins (see figure 6).
Like many fish, there is obvious sexual dimorphism between males and females (figure 7). Males are generally more colorful with more prominent fins while females are the opposite. Many betta fish enthusiasts may say that harems (one male among many females) is acceptable in an aquarium but in the presence of a male, female bettas hide and appear to be intimidated (Bronstein, 1982), and when females were given the option to be near either a male or a small group of one to three females, they spent more time near other females (Snekser et al., 2006). Males indefinitely fight when in proximity to each other. Surprisingly, female bettas also fight when placed together in a small aquarium, however, fighting is rarer in individual pairs, or in particularly larger groups, and do not have an uninterrupted experience of the aggressive display behavior typically preceding fights (Braddock and Braddock, 1955).
Diseases found in bettas are fin-rot (bacterial), White spot Disease (parasitic), Columnaris Disease (e.), (bacterial), Fish tuberculosis (bacterial), Velvet Disease (Piscinoodinium sp.) (parasitic), and Edwardsiellosis (bacterial), none of which are harmful to humans.
Bettas have mouths that are upturned, indicating that they are a top feeder and will scoop up their food on the water’s surface. Their fins are used not only for propulsion through the water but for maintaining balance and turning in different directions. They have one caudal fin, one dorsal fin, two pelvic fins, one anal fin, and two pectoral fins (Hargrove 1999). Wild bettas are capable of living in groups with a pecking order or in isolation. They are very territorial, especially after isolation or during courtship (Behav Process, 2006).
Where To Buy a Betta
Domestic bettas are commercially available both from online and local breeders as well as fish stores or rescues, however, wild bettas can usually only be acquired via a private breeder who can trace back their bloodlines from wild-caught individuals or other wild-type breeders. Most captive-bred wild-type bettas are selectively bred for flashier coloration but seem to be healthier than domestic bettas, Franks Bettas being a well-known breeder for such specimens (see figure 9) as well as wild bettas exclusively for preservation.
Breeder
If you decide to buy from a breeder, consider a breeder who keeps their breeding fish in appropriately sized (3+ gallons), cycled, and clean tanks, follows show standards (such as IBC, although not necessary), and doesn’t inbreed close relatives (line-breeding does not have negative consequences when done carefully). You can also easily import bettas from foreign breeders in other countries, but check laws first.
Pros: More beautiful individuals, known background, diet, and genetics. Fish from champion parents are generally functionally structured.
Cons: Difficulty in finding a breeder whose husbandry is to your standards, more sensitive (less hardy), inbreeding extremely common, and expensive to buy ($20+ without shipping).
Fish Store/Rescue
If you decide to buy from a fish store or rescue, make sure that all fish are properly housed (separated adolescents/adults, clean water with 3+ gallons for temporary tanks) and that the fish are acquired ethically (via rescues not illegal importation or fish mills).
Pros: Cheaper, sometimes hardier, and easier to access.
Cons: Usually unknown background and genetics, poorly bred individuals resulting in difficulty functioning properly, does not maintain looks of show-bred fish.
Dos and Don’ts
DO:
- Learn/recall the nitrogen cycle and “cycle” your aquarium before you buy your fish.
- Set up a fish tank that imitates your betta’s natural habitat to encourage more natural behaviors via heavy emergent vegetation, shallow water, low dissolved oxygen, and an acidic pH which help boosts the immune system and lower stress, this is known as a blackwater tank. Bettas may act withdrawn/shy if their tank feels too empty, especially if there’s a lot of foot traffic where its tank is located.
- Buy a filter (commercial, sponge filter, etc.) appropriate for your tank’s water volume with an adjustable/low flow (low enough not to disturb your betta, but high enough to disturb the water’s surface) and a heater as well as a thermometer.
- Turn off the light for your betta’s tank for 1.5–3 days and leave it alone to de-stress.
- Feed a variety of foods (dry foods without fillers, daphnia, brine shrimp, blood worms, mosquito larvae) to ensure optimal nutrition.
- Have a lid on the tank or floater plants. Bettas will sometimes jump out of their tanks, and all variations are capable of doing so.
DON’T:
- Buy a betta as a gift for somebody else. The person on the receiving end may be unprepared and in turn, may cause the fish to fall ill or die.
- Put two or more bettas in the same tank. Sororities and harems are very risky (may become aggressive when under the wrong circumstances) and not recommended. Keeping a male and female together is stressful and should only be attempted when breeding, otherwise, keep them separate.
- Allow rapid changes in pH as it is stressful to fish and may cause it to fall ill. Changing the pH by more than .3 units per day is known to stress fish.
- Overfeed your fish. Overfeeding can cause swim bladder disorder, bloating, constipation, and even death. A betta’s stomach is about the size of their eyeball.
- Permanently house your betta in fish bowls (bowls cannot properly accommodate a filter and offer a low surface area to air ratio).
- “Cheap out” on aquarium heaters. Cheap heaters may kill your fish as some are known to malfunction and not shut off at the set temperature.
Tank Mates
Bettas can be very aggressive towards other fish and even invertebrates. Take caution when adding snails and shrimp to your betta’s tank as most bettas will attack snails and shrimp. Faster fish (especially tetras) are likely to nip at the fins of long-finned bettas and vice-versa. Do not have schooling fish as tank mates with bettas in tanks under 20 gallons and be sure they are compatible in terms of required parameters, bioload, temperament, and size. Do not put goldfish and other large, cold water loving fish with a betta. Having other fish with bettas is advised against as the fish can compete over territory or become shy and stressed unless there is enough space for all fish to have their own spot with hiding places available.
Parameters
pH range: 5.47–8.0 (The lower the pH, the more acidic, which bettas prefer)
dH range: 5–19 (Bettas prefer softer water)
Temperature range: 24°C — 30°C (75°F-86°F)
Aquarium Size
Volume: A minimum of 2.5 gallons (5 gallons recommended); bigger is always better. Short-finned bettas should be in a minimum of 10 gallons as they are more active and may otherwise attempt to jump out of the tank due to being restless.
Dimensions: Longer than tall aquariums; moderately shallow.
NOTES: 1) Substrate, equipment (filter/heater), and decorations take up volume in the fish tank. 2) Smaller bodies of water require careful maintenance as the cycle is easier to “crash” (which can lead to unwanted algae/fungal growth & potential illness or death of inhabitants).
Shopping List
- Habitat Imitation
- 5+ gallon long rectangular fish tank
- Heater
- Filter (commercial, sponge filter, etc.)
- Substrate: River pebbles/rocks, (make sure to check if the rocks contain calcium using vinegar if taken from your local area, do not use if they fizz), sand, and or organic peat moss (lowers pH so be careful)
- Driftwood: Mopani, marsh root, cholla, manzanita, spider wood, hamiledyi, etc. (Alters pH and adds tannins, always boil to remove potential toxins/hitchhikers)
- Indian almond leaves/oak, alder cones [optional for blackwater]
- Fluval Bug Bites, Invert Aquatics Betta Bits, Omega One Betta Flakes, Omega One/Hikari frozen brine shrimp/daphnia/bloodworms/mosquito larvae (you can also feed live). You can feed other commercial betta food but avoid dry foods with fillers (any ingredient with -meal)
- Silk artificial plants (tall) OR live plants; floaters (duckweed/salvinia), rotala rotundifolia, ludwigia repens, amazon swords, bacopa, java ferns, crypt wendtii, anubias, etc. Benefits of live plants are needing less frequent water changes, better water quality, low chance of a nitrate spike, and good cover/enrichment for inhabitants.
Author’s Note
I hear the phrase “it’s just a fish” all too often, a phrase stated by those who see bettas as nothing more than decorations. I also hear that bettas are “beginner” fish, which I would have agreed with decades ago when they were known for being hardy fish. Bettas today, however, I would never recommend for a first-time owner considering how they are no longer very forgiving of imperfect water parameters or beginner mistakes. Like with any animal though, even animals not known for being a good first-time species can still be excellent for first-time owners if they do extensive research and take the time to prepare themselves.
Despite what people say, fish are not “easy” pets. They require an understanding of water chemistry, weekly water changes and maintenance (at the minimum depending on size and fish stock), and daily feeding with an appropriate amount of enrichment and space to be at their best. There are fish that can live past their expected lifespan with inadequate care, but that does not mean you should not do the best you can to provide for it (or any other animal for that matter). The most frustrating part of fish-keeping is keeping the balance: algae outbreaks, cloudy water, cycle crashes, pests, dying plants, fungi, disease, and parasites are things that many people experience daily.
I hear the phrase “it’s just a fish” all too often, a phrase stated by those who see bettas as nothing more than decorations. I also hear that bettas are “beginner” fish, which I would have agreed with decades ago when they were known for being hardy fish. Bettas today, however, I would never recommend for a first-time owner considering how they are no longer very forgiving of imperfect water parameters or beginner mistakes. Like with any animal though, even animals not known for being a good first-time species can still be excellent for first-time owners if they do extensive research and take the time to prepare themselves.
Buying a pet no matter the species is a commitment and should be taken seriously, if you are a parent and want to buy fish for your child, you are still partly responsible for your child’s new pet(s). Do consider that your child may become uninterested in the animal at some point, meaning the responsibility for its life falls onto you. If you are a minor, consider your financial situation and future plans, especially those of you who have any other ambitions that would require your living situation to change.
You can tell a fishkeeper’s pride based on the level of care they provide their fish and all other inhabitants. Despite it all, the reward of all that work paying off and watching it evolve into a pocket of nature in your own house is worth it. On an ending note, thank you to my fellow fish keepers who have helped me with the finishing touches of this guide.
References
- Seriously Fish
- Matthew Curtis and Don MacLean. 2014. “Siamese Fighting Fish (Betta splendens)” U.S Fish and Wildlife Service.
- Yanong, Roy P DiMaggio, Matthew Watson, Craig A Hill, Jeffrey E Tuckett, Quenton M Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences (SFRC). 2019. “Evolution, Culture, and Care For Betta Splendens” Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences (SFRC).
- Monvises, A., B. Nuangsaeng, N Sriwattanarothai, and B. Panijpan. 2009. “The Siamese Fighting Fish: Well-known Generally, but Little Known Scientifically.” Science Asia. 35, 8–16
- Snekser JL, McRobert SP, Clotfelter ED. (2006). “Social partner preferences of male and female fighting fish (Betta splendens)” Behav Process. 72, 38–41.
